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    April 03

    宗教的力量

    已经来卡诺快两周了,我每天就这样在这个古老,混乱,令人窒息的城市当中穿梭。戴上遮阳帽,背上包,拿起一瓶水,每天十点出门下午四点回家,然后上网,吃饭,看书,看电影。我已经无聊到把五集哈利波特当连续剧看了,生怕哪天看完了我就没事做一样,可是,在昨天,我还是把第五集给结束了,后面的日子,我就不知道该怎么打发了。



    这样的实地调研其实是非常令人兴奋和值得的,在这里,跟不同的人打交道,采访他们,看不同的观点在自己心里碰撞,这对我论文的塑造简直功不可没,虽然上个星期我还在痛苦的晚上做噩梦,不知道论文改写什么,从哪里下手,因为这个地方可以写的实在太多太多,但是至少现在,论文的论点和结构也逐渐清晰起来,于是我心情也就跟着好了上去。



    今天采访回来,快到两点,恰值每周五下午一次的最大祷告,门口的所有空地,马路上,密密麻麻集结的全是人,不管是商人还是路人,还是路边的乞丐,就包括旅店和餐馆中的所有员工都出来站在毯子上,静静守候祷告的开始。原本烦乱的马路,现在完全没有汽车的驶过和行人行走的踪迹,整个城市仿佛就像凝固了一样,百万人就这样分散在这个城市的个个角落,等待这个洗礼的到来。两点一过,远处的喇叭里传来开始祷告的呼号,那个呼号不强烈,听得出是从很远的地方传来的,但是,只需要那一个声音,就足够了,虽然声小,但绝不微弱。马路边的所有人随着呼号的变换,开始统一的起立,祷告,弯腰,下跪,在二楼观看的我,能清楚的听见上万人同时行动发出的摩擦声,十分整齐,偌大的城市中就存在这统一的声音和远处呼号在空中的回旋,所有人,就这样朝着圣城麦加的方向,献上一周中最虔诚最大的一次祈祷。我站在这个难得片刻安宁的城市中,看着这一切,想到在我记忆中,我所经历过的如此规模的集体活动,恐怕要数5.12地震之后的那次全国哀悼吧,而这样规模的祷告却每周一次,弥漫在大半个地球上。于是,我被这种宗教的力量,震撼了。


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